Step 5 — Sand the Hole With your sandpaper, until it's smooth. When it comes to filling large holes in solid wood doors, the two main considerations are structure and appearance. If not, apply enough so there are no voids. Sand the inside of the hole of gap if you can and remove every speck of dust — vacuuming is ideal. Pack the hole with paper towels.
Step 2 — Mix the Wood-Epoxy Filler Warning: Use wood-epoxy filler only in a properly ventilated area. Squeeze or spread a small dollop of wood filler over each scratch on your door. Auto body fillers are designed to take a lot of punishment and if applied properly, will last as long as the door. I have used it outdoors and left it unpainted for years with no problem. Epoxy does not expand as it dries but it is hard to sand down flush so you have to be careful when you are using it so it does not overflow. Sanding in the opposite direction from the wood grain will leave scratches in the wood, which will be visible, especially after painting or staining. Take a piece of ½-inch pine and set it into the routed recess in the door.
Use a putty knife to scoop out some spackle and spread it over the hole in your door. Squeeze a generous bead of carpenter's glue into the joints around the Dutchman patch. To make sure the paint or wood stain sticks evenly to the area you are painting or staining, use 220-grit sandpaper to sand down the repaired area. Remove the door hinge pins and pull back the press-board and pour the glue around inside and use a putty knife or a piece of cardboard to get it on the edges. Maybe a slight exaggeration, but seriously, they can turn something ugly and amateur-looking into something smooth and gorgeous. That slow drying aspect means that it remains flexible for a longer period which is very helpful. Don't risk using too little, so feel free to over-apply.
Use a chisel to square up the rounded corners left by the router bit. Or you could mend it. Apply it with a putty knife or whatever tool is most applicable to your project, and let it dry. Work in smooth, deliberate strokes to remove any excess wood filler and flatten the surface of the door. Once the acrylic filler hardens, sand it smooth. Thank you for your Instructable. This will remove an even amount of wood off of the plug all the way around.
Check out the final results of. Together, they cited information from. It's best to paint or stain the entire door to achieve an even finish, rather than only painting or staining the area you repaired. Mark the pine to match the length of the recess, then cut the board to length on a miter saw, creating a Dutchman patch. But why, when and how do you use them? It will normally come packaged with a hardener catalyst designed specifically to activate it. Lay the template onto the door over the lockset hole.
Hello Deborah, I am sorry but Laminate is not my field and you may be better checking with your supplier to see what they can suggest. In my experience, bondo fills wood voids, both large and small, with no problems at all. It dries very hard, can be sanded smooth, and can be painted to blend in. Wood filler alone may not fill the entire depth of the screw holes. Whether you repaired the door with spackle or an auto-body filler compound, it will take around 1 hour for your repair compound to dry completely.
Do I need to worry? One of the more favorable fillings is epoxy. Do you have an unwanted hole in an exterior door Figure 1 because you changed a lock, deadbolt, door knobs or handles? Sprinkle some fine sawdust over the glue, then rub it into the joints with your fingertips. This hole saw should be the next size larger then the hole that is currently drilled in the door. After it is dry, cut off excess. My plan is to treat the knots with Zinser. Hopefully, this post has given you some great new products to try. Among the most weather-resistant and durable are those made with polyester or epoxy resin.
I know these will make your projects go smoother and look better. This is probably not the best tutorial, but it will get you started if you want to do a google search to learn more about the process. You said at one point that it can be mixed to the need of the project. Use a putty knife to push the mixture into the nail holes quickly since superglue dries so quickly. The door lock can be mounted through the push plate if you believe you would end up with a better overall appearance. Is there an exterior primer you recommend and should I primer all the trim or juat repaired areas? Square up the template with the door's edge and then clamp it in place. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Pinning and sharing is always encouraged! This website is not intended to substitute for advice from a professional.
There are tons of different types of epoxies for wood, but this product by Abatron is by far my favorite. Osmo Wood Filler will accept wood finishing products such as. I need to restore every inch of all surfaces. After a bit I wondered if it wouldn't be better to cut the hole you want to fill into a square, then make a square plug. I usually use a satin exterier paint by Cuprinol.
Position a utility knife slightly above any protruding insulation foam so that it is flush with the face of the door. For someone that doesn't have a hole saw the right size, it would be the less expensive way to go. There are a couple of products that you could consider. Cut a square hole in the template slightly larger than the existing lockset mortise. Find paint or wood stain that matches the color of your door.